Originally, I simply superglued the bodies to a lightly dubbed hook, but found that after a few trips, the bodies had a habit of becoming detached, particularly if the fly became trapped between stones. So I then added a wire rib to the tying which helped a lot; however, a wire rib against an unweilding tungsten base is quite prone to abrasion and I've found that contact with trout teeth and rock tends to result in the rib breaking after a while. So I've now added a thin epoxy shell-back to the dressing which I reckon makes it just about bomb-proof!
I'd whole-heartedly recommend trying a few of these. The Bidoz bodies aren't cheap, but I've caught a hell of a lot of fish on these this season (and hope to continue doing so through the winter). Some of them are fish I don't think I would have caught using my standard bugs......
The Epoxy Bidoz Bug.
Hook: Scorpion Supergrub size 12-16.
Thread: 16/0 in colour to suit.
Rib: Wire in colour to suit.
Tail (optional): Pheasant tail fibres.
Dubbing: Any loosely dubbed material. I use masterclass and hare's ear.
Body: Tungsten Bidoz body in size 7-9mm.
Shellback: Thinly applied 5 minute epoxy.
1. Catch in 3-4 tail fibres and wire rib. Keep bulk down to a minimum (the bidoz is fixed via a narrow groove on the underside and if the flies underbody is built up too fat, it won't fit)
2. Dub loosely back toward the eye (I have used masterclass #10 rhyacophila here), leaving room for the thorax dubbing.
3. Dub on a thorax of hare fur, stroking all the fibres downwards to give a leggy appearance.
4. Now apply a thin bead of superglue to the groove on the underside of the tungsten body, and plonk it onto the hook, holding down for a few seconds until it has stuck.
5. Take the wire and wind it forwards using the grooves in the body to space the rib. Bind it down and wiggle the tag end of the wire gently to break it. Then whip finish and cement the head.
6. Mix a little epoxy up and apply a thin coat to the back of the fly. Voila! It's time to go catch some grayling!