Sunday, July 21, 2013

CPS: step-by-step tying sequence

In the previous post I waxed lyrical about this B-WO cripple para-spinner (CPS) pattern. I discussed the thinking behind its development in plenty enough detail there (and here come to think of it!), so I'll crack on with the nuts and bolts of its dressing without further dispatch.

Hook: Mustad R50 or R30, #16
Thread: 14/0 brown
Tails: Coq de Lyon fibres
Wing: single ply of aero-dry 
Dubbing: Masterclass - blend of shades #18 and 22
Hackle: grizzle, dun grizzle or just plain dun (the former used here) 

The first  - and arguably most important - job is to put a horizontal crank in the hook shank, approximately a third of the way down from the eye. Hook choice is important here as some models just don't take to bending and snap the moment any pressure is applied. Tiemco's legendary 103BL and the very similar Partridge SLD are guilty of this, which is a shame as they are both tremendous patterns for dries. Tiemco 100s, or the slightly wider gape Mustad R50s are my hook of choice for this technique and a #16 in the latter model works out just a tad larger than my local BW-Os - perfect!
The bending is done by vicing the hook vertically, then using a pair of fine nosed pliers.

Run on the thread and catch in a few CdL fibres (or microfibbets if you prefer). You could splay these to equal thirds a la the natural fly. I no longer bother. With hindsight, I might have left the fibres on this particular attempt, a little longer. Spinner tails are really quite long when you look at them......

Return the thread to the third point and tie in the wing post. I use a halved ply of TMC Aero-dry wing, which becomes a single ply when doubled up shortly. Tie the half ply in figure of eight fashion on the top of the hook shank.

Now grab the two ends of the wing and lift them to meet together in the vertical position. Apply a few thread wraps to the bottom to form a post -  the base for the para hackle .

Take the hackle stem and strip off some fibres from the bottom, offer up to the post and tie in, securing to the post, and then to the hook shank itself if the hackle butt protrudes far enough.

Return the thread to the arse of the fly and then dub back a thin layer of your chosen blend. You may wish to follow this back with a rib of some description. I don't bother.

Now give the hackle three or four clockwise turns around the post and tie off.

Using thumb and forefinger of left hand, hold back the front edge of the hackle and dub on the remaining length of the shank from the base of the wing post to the eye. Whip finish and cast off.


All that remains is to push down the hackle from the top (whilst holding the wing post taut), so that the hackle turns snug down into the base of the post. Then trim the excess post material down to length. 

Voila! A final embellishment I give the fly is to clip a section out of the front and back of the para hackle to leave the impression of a pair of spent spinner wings. I'm not sure if this makes much of a difference, but I like it and it only takes a few seconds. Finished pattern looks like the photo at the top of this post, from below......and like this from above:

And that's all there is to it. Nothing ground breaking, merely a tarted-up paradun when all's said and done. It does do the business though, when the blue-wings are falling. I would be confident in this pattern if you decide to tie a few up.......the hard bit is putting it where it's going to get eaten!


Regular Rod said...

Love the body colour. AS very good match of the Sherry Spinner's true colours.


Doolz said...

Top quality as usual Matt.
I have tied my sherrys a la Kelly Gallop the last few seasons and have found it a far more effective style than conventional the straight shank.

Matthew Eastham said...

Thanks for dropping by Richard and Bill!

Anonymous said...

Hi Matt

Do you heat the shank before cranking?


Anonymous said...

Lovely Matt, love the post so you can see it...
See u soon